Road Tripping Through the Karoo

Which is why my husband and I decided to take our two intrepid mini-travellers, Noah (aged 10) and Milo (aged five) from Cape Town to Prince Albert – with various stops along the way.

South Africa’s equivalent to the Australian Outback, the Karoo is a vast semi-desert stretching across four provinces, with the Klein Karoo (Little Karoo) in the southwest and the expansive Great Karoo to the northeast. The latter covers more than 400,000sq km – an area larger than Germany.

Driving allows for flexibility and detours – you can go wherever the mood takes you, and enjoy regular breaks at traditional padstals (farm stalls) en route so that young travellers can stretch their legs. The drive will also take you along parts of South Africa’s famous Route 62, which links Cape Town to Gqeberha (formerly Port Elizabeth).

For ease, we drove back via the N1 but, depending on time and children’s ages, you could circle back along the Garden Route; or extend your road trip into the Great Karoo. There are also options to only drive one way and then fly back to Cape Town from George or, further along, Gqeberha. The choice is endless – chat to us for recommendations and to help you plan your trip.

AfriCamps at Karoo 1, Hex Valley

Our first stop was the Hex River Valley – known as the gateway between the Cape and the Karoo, this is where mountains, rivers and valleys converge to offer visitors a first glimpse of what’s to come. AfriCamps knows a thing or two about boutique glamping, having set up shop at some of the most beautiful working farms and estates in South Africa – in this case the popular Karoo 1 Farm Estate. Here, 13 glamping tents are built into the surrounding rock faces, leading to a secret rock pool for cooling summer dips.

Each tent sleeps up to five, and comes with a large outdoor deck and braai area – as well as blanket heaters (a lifesaver during the Karoo’s chilly winter nights). The estate also features a pool, boma, and movie nights under the stars, and is the perfect starting point for several hiking and mountain-biking trails. There’s a restaurant, but we decided to order the excellent breakfast and braai baskets and enjoyed quality family time on our deck.

Insider tip: Make sure to book a tent with a wood-fired hot tub – hours of entertainment for little ones (as well as their parents!)

Melozhori Private Game Reserve, Overberg

Next, we took a slight detour to the foothills of the Overberg Mountains for a stay at Melozhori Private Game Reserve. Amidst 2,300 hectares of wilderness – rehabilitated from former sheep and lucern farmland – you’ll find the recently refurbished The Lodge, an exclusive-use villa with four ensuite bedrooms and private staff. If you’re travelling as a bigger family and are looking for a stylish yet unpretentious home-away-from-home, this is it.

The four suites each come with their own private deck and hammock, and are set around a huge open-plan living area inside, and a scenic rim-flow pool outside. A sunken fire-pit in the middle of the pool offers expansive views towards a pond and Melozhori’s dramatic landscape, with a path leading to a hot tub and al fresco dining area complete with pizza oven.

During a guided game drive, we spotted a wide variety of antelope, bird species, and the reserve’s friendly giraffe herd, as well as fynbos, rare renosterveld, and stretches of succulent Karoo vegetation. With no predators, you’re also free to hike and mountain-bike across the reserve – and as there’s no set schedule, you can do as much or as little as you like.

Insider tip: Smaller families can also book one of Melozhori’s two self-catering eco pods or two-bedroom cottage, while the romantic Treehouse will appeal to couples.

Gondwana Family Lodge, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve

Leaving Melozhori behind, we cruised through Bonnievale, the scenic Kogmanskloofpas, and picturesque Montagu (tip: stop at The Barn on 62 for coffee and carrot cake), to our next destination, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve.

Turning off between Montagu and Barrydale along Route 62, you’ll suddenly find yourself in the middle of one of South Africa’s most diverse regions – 62,000 hectares of lush rolling hills, craggy mountains, and a seemingly never-ending horizon. Sanbona’s size is staggering: to get to the reserve’s Gondwana Family Lodge we had to drive 7km to the main gate, followed by 12km to the Welcome Lounge – at which point we parked our car before a 30-minute transfer along rivers and through towering cliffs to Gondwana.  

Overlooking a dam, the spacious lodge offers jaw-dropping views of the Anysberg Mountains, with huge interconnecting suites allowing for both quality family time and privacy (for the best views, book the thatched suites on the top floor). As a family lodge, Gondwana is paradise for mini-conservationists, who are welcomed with their own Eco-Explorers backpack and ‘animal dung booklet’ – the latter leading to my five-year-old enthusiastically adding to his collection throughout our stay.

A non-profit reserve since 2020, Sanbona follows an ambitious rewilding conservation method – the first of its kind ever attempted in the arid Karoo environment. During game drives, you’ll spot free-roaming hippos, lions, herds of elephants, rhinos, giraffes, and much more, but it’s the vast, ever-changing landscape that truly takes your breath away – my older son Noah was so entranced that his usual demands for screentime were all but forgotten.

Insider tip: With indoor and outdoor play areas for little ones, plus special kids’ activities overseen by a childminder, don’t be surprised if you hardly see your offspring – they’ll have the time of their lives while you can sit back and relax.

Diesel & Crème/Karoo Moon Motel, Barrydale

Leaving Sanbona behind, we drove on along Route 62 to our next destination, Barrydale – a quaint little town most famous for its vintage roadside diner, Diesel & Crème. The brainchild of father-and-son duo Arthur and Dean Pharo, the diner and adjacent Karoo Moon Motel feature a wonderfully eccentric collection of artefacts and old road signs, lovingly sourced from around the world. A former farmstead, the Motel is one of the oldest houses in Barrydale – carefully renovated by Arthur, it comprises a studio and a suite with separate entrances, which can be booked separately or together. A block further down, you’ll also find the newer but equally vintage-inspired The Karoo Moon House & Cottage, which sleep three and two adults respectively, and can also be booked together.  

Diesel & Crème is an iconic R62 stop-off, as evidenced by the constant stream of road-trippers stopping for its burgers and famous milkshakes. Excitedly exploring the disused fairground rides, my younger one felt as if he’d fallen through the rabbit hole and straight into Alice in Wonderland, while my 10-year-old tween was a bit stumped by the vintage element and declared it to not really be ‘his vibe’. As for me, I love a place that does things differently. Seemingly thrown together, it’s apparent that a lot of thought has gone into the diner’s and motel’s creation, with Dean and his partner Andries continuously adding finds from their travels.

Insider tip: If time allows, take a detour to drive along the Tradouw Pass. Connecting Barrydale to Swellendam, the 16km drive curves its way through the towering Langeberg mountain range – one of the Western Cape’s most beautiful mountain passes.

Dennehof Karoo Guesthouse, Prince Albert

From Barrydale, we continued on to Outshoorn – famous for its underground Cango Caves and ostrich farms – and across the breathtaking Swartberg Pass to our final destination, Dennehof. Situated on the outskirts of Prince Albert, the former farmhouse has been lovingly restored by Inga and Albert Terblanche, who, like many before them, moved here from Johannesburg in search of a more tranquil life. Today, the guesthouse comprises eight ensuite bedrooms, a traditional stoep, and a sauna and saltwater plunge pool and raised deck that make the most of the idyllic rural setting – with a windmill, olive groves, and the towering Swartberg mountains as a panoramic backdrop.

The traditionally furnished rooms add a homely touch, as does the beautiful glass conservatory, which is shaded by lush gardens. Breakfast here is a feast – when I enquired about the fresh sourdough bread, Inga smiled and said ‘I baked it this morning’. There’s something wonderfully relaxing about a stay here, exploring the charming town of Prince Albert and the region’s natural bounty at the nearby Weltevrede Fig Farm. As the sun was starting to set, we climbed up the hill opposite to watch the sky turn vivid hues of pink and orange – the expansive landscape spread out at our feet. As so often on this trip, we were once again taken aback by the almost otherworldly beauty of the Karoo – a truly magical place that deserves to be discovered.

Insider tip: If you continue your trip further east, I recommend driving along the Meiringspoort Pass. Connecting the Little Karoo with the Great Karoo, the pass cuts across the Swartberg mountain range, with the 25km long road crossing the same river 25 times – slicing through magnificent rock formations, soaring sandstone cliffs, and spectacular waterfalls along the way.

Inspired?

If you’re inspired to embark on your own road trip through the Klein Karoo, don’t hesitate to reach out for more information. From scenic routes and unique stays to hidden gems and insider tips, we’re here to help you plan an unforgettable journey through this captivating region. Contact us to start planning your adventure and uncover the magic of South Africa’s semi-desert wonderland.