The highlight of any stay in Zambia's famed wilderness area along the Luangwa River is always the walking safari. Escorted by rangers, the safari is safe and the walking easy. Without the roar of a safari vehicle's diesel engine and the exhaust fumes, the African bush comes alive with sights, sounds, smells, textures, colours and feelings.

And to top it all, camping out costs less and is way more authentic than a night at a luxury lodge.

Often you hear the hooves of retreating antelope before you see them; the ripping of grass or the breaking of a branch signals elephants nearby; the tracker points out prints in the sand and you follow on the path looking for plains game and predators alike. No cars, no planes, no telephones - just the constant babble of birds and the wind ruffling the trees - the tranquility is tactile.

As you walk into camp around lunch time, the small dome tents form a semi-circle around the campfire before a splendid view of the African bush - later to become a splendid view of the African sunset.

The night, filled with natural sounds, is a peaceful rejuvenation: don't worry about the animals, they pose no threat - certainly not with your armed ranger at the alert and the embers of the fire. It is a known fact that the animals - all the dangerous ones at least - keep their distance from these strange and powerful creatures called humans and while exciting, you are at all times completely safe.