Etendeka is pure Namibia: vast open spaces, total tranquility, simple back-to-basics accommodation and warm hospitality.

It's an eco-camp and that means a long game-drive transfer for starters, solar-heated showers, meals cooked over an open fire and a happy absence of paracomforts. And for many, it is this very away-from-it-all-ness that makes Etendeka Mountain Camp the highlight of their Namibia tour.

That's a bold statement but we know Dennis and his right-hand man Boniface (Bonnie) won't let us down. The Etendeka Concession is a county-sized tract of unspoilt wilderness between Etosha and Palmwag encompassing the eponymous plateau, the Namib Desert and the Grootberg Mountains.

A stay at Etendeka Mountain Camp offers an intimate natural encounter with the intriguing Namibian environment and the prolific species of plants, insects, wildlife and birds are treated with equal respect and enthusiasm. Geology, astronomy, history, conservation, culture and the time of day also get a frequent look-in.

Accommodation is simple and comfortable with walk-in tents, twin beds, en suite bathroom with flush toilet – this isn't the dark ages – hot running water and charming open-air showers. Homely meals are served al fresco or in the open-plan living area, most of the cooking is done over the coals - the Etendeka Chicken is a marvel of ingenuity.