Desert Rhino Camp is in the Palmwag Concession. Covering a staggering 400,000ha, the community-owned nature reserve has an intricate ecosystem supporting desert-adapted wildlife including elephants and the world's largest population of black free-roaming rhino.

The luxurious accommodation at Desert Rhino Camp is enhanced by its remote and precarious existence. The camp has eight walk-in Meru-style safari tents on elevated platforms with en suite bathrooms and delightful hot-water bucket showers; the living area has enormous sofas that look out through open sides at the remarkable Damaraland landscape.

The décor is simple yet comfortable in earthy tones reminiscent of the land beyond. It’s easy on the eye with subtle hints of colour and pattern in between. Just enough to leave the main focus on the ever-changing hues of the incredible setting sun on the horizon in strong contrast to the deserted plains below.

Meal times area cause for yet more surprises as first-class food is whipped up from what seems like the bare earth and served beneath what could easily be the darkest night sky you’ve ever experienced. It’s spectacular.

As are the sightings of the black rhinos you will most likely get a chance to see, although not guaranteed. Head out with your guide in search of them and all the while exploring the wilderness, so vast, so remote and so untouched. Seeing a black rhino is always amazing. Seeing them in this setting is indescribable.